Pro Input

[1StTurbo]

Ok i know some of you guys have built enough motor's to do it blind folded. SO i am asking a couple questions that can direct me on how i want to go.

I just acquired a 89 ( i think ) 7MGTE, 120k not sure why they changed it out at the moment but will look into that. So planning to rebuild it complete so i have one ready to go when mine needs to be replaced.

1. Approx cost to replace all internals with stock parts get block an head done and do MHG.

2. Approx cost to build it for say 500-600 hp and any info on what is the best way to go.I am determined to NOT half ass it. Even if i can not get all the extra's now to achieve this but at least have a engine capable when it is done

Thanks for taking the time to help, i have read so many build threads but i am looking to go the best bullet proof build i can.

 

[bioskyline]

well as im in canada prices are different, but should be less for you i would think.

1) im not sure if you can buy new stock rods and pistons anymore, will have to look into it. the mhg and arp studs with machining can run from 500-700 depending on the shop doing the machining. this price is you tear it down and rebuild it.

2) approx cost is a arm and leg. glad to hear your not going to half ass it, but cost can be anywhere from 3000 - 10,000+ depending on brand, or if you locate some used parts to cut costs. as im here in canada, after shipping and taxes/duties most of the mods come to over 1000 cdn for me (1000 for rods, 800 for pistons, hks dragger exaust 1100, etc) only way for you to approx the cost is go shopping online and compare prices, or get price quotes from your local parts store.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Question one doesnt apply when your looking for the answer to number two.

5-600 RWHP non-half-assed will be as expensive as you choose it to be.

Parts for the motor would include:

Forged pistons 600-800
Forged connecting rods 600-1500
Metal Headgasket 150
ARP Head Studs 100
New TOYOTA oil pump 200
Full Gasket Kit 150
Cams (recommend 272's) 600
+1mm Valves, Springs and retainers. 800
Under Bucket Shim lifters. 300

Engine Parts Total Looking at anywhere from 3400-4600 In major Engine Parts.

Machine work will be in the 2-4k range to deck block, bore and hone cylinders surface the head, oversize the valves and replace all the freeze plugs and oil pump shaft bearings, Fit the pistons pins to the rod bushings and order fitted bearings for your motor. This doesnt include assembly. So far 5400-8600 in motor parts.

If your manual:

Clutch 500-1000
Parts to beef up the R154 ?????????
Driveshaft 350

If your auto:

Race Trans Rebuild 1000-1500
Converter 500
Driveshaft 350
Trans controller 300

Drivetrain total 850-2650

Other stuff:

Standalone EMS 1500-10,000+
Radiator 300-500
Oil/trans coolers 100-200
Hoses, Belts 50
Synthetic Fluids 150-300
Misc stuff. 500

Other total 2600-14,150+

Overall approximate total 8850-25400+ For a bunch of stuff you still need to assemble and have tuned before it will even be usefull.

This total would be for a 500-600 RWHP capable drivetrain, No fuel system, turbo or intercooler. Figure another 2500-4000 or so for that. On top of that you still would have to tend to the rest of the vehicle thats 20+ years old. Add in Struts, Bushings, Tires, Wheels, Differential work and whatever else the shell may require and your looking at some serious financial battles.

These prolly a ton of things i missed, But this should give you an idea of how things can be vastly different from one build to another.

If i were you i would start with forged pistons, forged rods and a MHG. Get a T4 manifold and a decent size journal bearing T4 turbo. Get something to tune with (MAFT or Standalone) and play with that for a while to see if this car is for you.

This is as cheap and easy as you can go with the most performance and reliability.

You can always spend more and go bigger, If you spend 20+ Grand and figure out the hard way its not for you, youll never get it back.

Good Luck and whatever you do make a thread and post pictures!

-Dan

 

[1StTurbo]

Wow thanks so much, as much as i would love to do the 500-600 HP build think that is so far out of a budget i could work with the wife on i will go with a normal rebuild. When looking at those numbers it almost makes a 2JZ swap sound cheaper lol

 

[TurboStreetCar]

It can be overwelming. A 2JZ swap will need most of the same parts, just for a JZ setup rather then a 7M Setup.

Have you ever driven something with 500-600WHP on the street before? Many people set this goal with little to no experience with this amount of power. 400WHP on the street is more then fun. over 500 can be dangerous.

Like i said, Start with a MHG, tuning device, Walbro, 550's/lexAFM, and a decent turbo and intercooler. Its the best bang for the buck and will help you decide how much more you want.

 

[1StTurbo]

lol last thing i drove on the road with 500 horse was a Detroit Silver 92

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Haha, Its a bit different with a Gasoline powerband in a vehicle with thousands of less pounds.

 

[toyotanos]

lol, so true.